I have a theory about Italian restaurants in Bergen. There are lots of them and many are quite good. But since you probably have a respectable one in your neck of the ‘burbs, you aren’t likely to trek across the county to dine in another one.
Fontana di Trevi is one of the exceptions to this “rule.” And from all appearances, the contented crowd that filled this intimate BYO on a recent evening was not from around the corner. We felt fortunate to be seated at a table in the inner of the two dining rooms; the outer one feels a bit like an entrance hall. But owner Andrew Calegari and his wife, Sara, have made the plain rooms more attractive with décor that recalls an Italian grotto. Walls are painted to resemble old plaster and a soft glow is added with wrought-iron sconces. Dark brown draperies soften the storefront windows and upholstered chairs offer further comfort.
The menu is firmly old-world with a smattering of more contemporary choices. We started with an impressive antipasto –including shrimp cocktail - each element presented in a radicchio leaf cup. More plump, perfectly cooked shrimp were the star of another starter – gamberi Trevi – which paired them with cremini mushrooms and garlic in a light, slightly creamy sauce. A frito misto of calamari, zucchini and mozzarella was perfectly fried and clams oreganate were another nicely done rendition of a classic. It was also hard not to overindulge in Sara Calegari’s delicious, warm focaccia or yeast rolls filled with mascarpone cheese.
Another old-fashioned element is the tableside preparation of Caesar salad. Fontana di Trevi does it right – a large wooden salad bowl is rubbed with a generous amount of garlic, then anchovies, raw egg and finally copious amounts of Parmesan cheese are added before the whole fragrant mixture is tossed with crisp romaine lettuce. I also loved a more contemporary salad of shaved fennel with apples and beets in a creamy garlic dressing topped with pistachio crusted rounds of goat cheese.
Entrees here are distinguished less by creativity and more by quality and cooking skill. Branzino oreganate, veal scaloppine piccata and grilled lamp chops were all simple and perfectly satisfying. The only slight disappointment was linguini with clam sauce; the fresh whole clams in their shells were good, but the too-plain sauce would have benefitted from some parsley.
Desserts – all except the sorbets made in house – are also classic and comforting. A straightforward square of panettone bread pudding was gilded with a drizzle of chocolate sauce and tiramisu was both light and full of flavor. What was described as “strawberry tart” was in fact a warm, whipped cream-topped strawberry crisp, a delightful way to treat summer fruit on a winter’s evening.
If you live in Leonia, consider yourself lucky to have this Italian gem in your backyard. If not, make a reservation and go - it’s worth the trip.
