"Mantra" is an ancient Sanskrit word that, in modern usage, can reference anything from a serious phrase intoned to focus meditation and prayer, to a playful advertising slogan or political catchphrase. Both the serious and the playful are evident at chef Purvesh Patel?s new venture, housed in the Route 4 location formerly occupied by Namaskaar.
In redesigning the strip-mall space, the corner setting was used to full advantage to allow as much light as possible to stream in through the floor-to-ceiling windows that occupy two sides of the space. Sleek furnishings and bold, rich colors warm the airy interior, while glass panels stamped with Hindu symbols add ethnic punch. A particularly striking element is a horizontal gas fire, set halfway up in the wall that separates the bar and lounge from the dining room.
Chef Patel brings impressive credentials to Mantra. Following his early training at the celebrated Church Street Caf頩n Lenox, Mass., he worked alongside his brother Biraj as chef-owners of Zarole in Ridgewood. Just 27 years old, Purvesh Patel is clearly ready for prime time, producing startlingly good Indian dishes that should establish him as a star in his own right.
The light and flavorful appetizers were our first hint of the chef?s skill. Crisp pakoras ? vegetables fried in a chick pea batter ? were rivaled by equally greaseless lamb samosas. Chaat ? a chick pea- and vegetable-filled street snack typically wrapped in pastry ? is elevated to the next level with lobster and a cucumber "crust." The breads that are a cornerstone of Indian cuisine were also superb, and perfect for dipping into garlicky raita or the dishes of tamarind chutney and mint-coriander sauce that accompany many of the appetizers. The bread basket, which features the three basic varieties ? naan, paratha and kulcha ? is a good choice for the uninitiated.
Mantra?s entr饳 include a selection of meats and fish grilled in the tandoori oven, as well as curries and rice-based dishes; all are ideal for sharing, and doing so makes for a more complete experience. Classic chicken tandoori was surprisingly moist, its bright-red exterior appealingly crisp from the oven. Lamb biryani (a rice dish) and Goan shrimp curry each had just enough spicy heat to lend even more depth to the heady and complex flavors.
We were charmed into ordering dessert by our amiable waitress, who, like much of Mantra?s staff, is young but knowledgeable. Saffron had the starring role in a silky cr譥 br?and creamy rice pudding, and was also an ingredient in a honey-sweetened sauce for pillowy dumplings called gulab jamum. We could tell that the waitress ? who admitted she didn?t cook ? had fun with the preparation of bananas flamb鬠a not-very-Indian (but nonetheless delicious) tableside treat. This lighthearted end to a memorable meal said to me that my mantra should be "always order dessert."
