With five major restaurants, The Shops at Riverside is fast becoming as much of a Bergen dining destination as food-centric downtowns like Ridgewood and Englewood. Perhaps the most hotly anticipated of the three large eateries to open in the mall's new "restaurant wing" was Rosa Mexicano, making Hackensack the ninth location for the award-winning chain.
This is obviously not a hole-in-the-wall cantina. Those who recall the rustic, cozy atmosphere of the restaurant's original outlet, which opened on 58th and Third in Manhattan in 1984, will be surprised by the massive, wide-open space at Riverside. The bright color scheme and authentic artwork lend warmth, but two raised dining areas along one side and at the back of the large room offer more intimacy and quiet than the bustling center space. And the polished, professional service goes a long way toward making the experience here more than the Disney-esque venue might suggest.
There is no point in resisting Rosa Mexicano's signature starter, Guacamole en Molcajete, prepared tableside in the traditional lava-rock mortar. It is the perfect partner to another signature: the pomegranate martini. However, I found that a flight of tequilas (your waiter will help you choose from the dizzying - no pun intended - variety) can be a more interesting way to get the fiesta started.
Rosa Mexicano has set its culinary sights on offering authentic Mexican flavors. I had always been curious about huitlacoche, the black, corn fungus that is used like a mushroom in Mexican cooking. Folded into a quesadilla, its intense earthiness was balanced by poblano chilies and mild chihuahua cheese. Queso fundido (essentially, Mexican fondue) with chorizo was another good choice, while red snapper and shrimp ceviche was over-marinated and had an unpleasantly fishy taste.
Entrees were beautifully presented and well prepared. Tablones (boneless beef short ribs) are another of the restaurant's signature dishes. Lush and full of flavor, the ribs were well complemented by a zesty tomato-chipotle pepper sauce. Chamorro (pork shank) was also a star, roasted to a delightful crispness on the outside, with tender, soft meat within. A whole, butterflied red snapper was also perfectly and simply roasted, served with tomatillo salsa. Crab enchiladas featured an impressive portion of jumbo lump crab meat, rolled in corn tortillas with tomatillo cream sauce, but compared with the distinctive tastes of the other offerings, were somewhat bland.
As with the other courses, traditional desserts were the most successful. Pumpkin cheesecake's best feature was its nut brittle garnish, but decadent Oaxacan chocolate flan and my favorite, the sinfully rich coconut tres leches (three milks) cake were both well worth the calories.
Like its companion restaurants at Riverside, P.F. Chang's and Maggiano's, Rosa Mexicano can get mobbed. The bar is a perfectly pleasant place to while away the wait for a table while you admire - and perhaps sample - the tequila selection, but a reservation is also a buena idea.
